The awakening in Diego Suarez
The alarm in the city of Diego Suarez rings at 7:30, a nice shower and ready for breakfast of omelette and bread with jam. The appointment with Stefano is at 8:15 to leave for the Montagne d’Ambre, about 40 km from here.
After the first day at the Ankarana park, the second at the Tsingy Rouge park, now the rainforest awaits us!
The Amber Mountain
It is the first national park in Madagascar, established in 1956 by a doctor. This place is a now extinct volcanic massif that is home to the famous primary rainforest of Madagascar and contains a unique biodiversity heritage:
About 1200 species of plants of which 90% are medicinal, even animals are not lacking with 7 species of lemurs of which only two are diurnal, numerous species of reptiles, amphibians and birds. Needless to say that this place alone deserved a visit of several days ... But time is running out so we will settle for a two-hour tour in the middle of the thick and imposing vegetation, completely immersed in Nature. The particular name Montagne d'Ambre comes from a particular resin (the color of amber) that exudes from some large trees in the heart of the forest and that is used for medicinal purposes by the locals.
In the middle of the rainforest
Before diving into exploration you need to be well equipped with closed shoes, long pants (mosquitoes etc) and a k-way just in case! So let's get ready and go!
As soon as we leave the main path, my gaze is captured by these large, imposing plants called ficus stritolatori, a particularly singular name that contains a rather dramatic meaning: this tree takes over another tree by growing around it and preventing its growth until it is engulfed by the ficus itself.
So, we are actually looking at two trees!
We walk along this little path until Stefano stops: we have found the nocturnal lemur! Here he is hugging a tree trunk with his eyes wide open! A bit disturbing indeed, but Stefano says he is actually sleeping, so we take a quick photo and then continue without disturbing him further.
We arrive at a beautiful viewpoint and in front of us appears an imposing waterfall, in this park there are 6 volcanic lakes and 7 waterfalls Stefano tells us and they are sacred! In fact it is forbidden to bathe both for their sacredness and to avoid contaminating the water with sun creams and so on.
I really appreciated this ban because even if we often don't think about it, animals and plants that live in these places could be damaged by the chemicals that we unconsciously transport. I therefore think it's right to have the least impact possible in this primordial place.
And now the moment we were anxiously waiting for: the search for the smallest chameleon in the world called brookesia! Let's say that we didn't give a great contribution but luckily Stefano is an expert guide and searching in its ideal habitat he found this tiny dragon of a few mm! To say the least extraordinary!
But the surprises don't end here and among the super camouflage champions we also found this strange leaf-tailed gecko that camouflages itself on the white and gray bark of the trees, practically impossible to notice if you are not looking carefully!
Everything around us is teeming with life between plants and animals, we no longer know where to look and the biodiversity that lives in this remote place where everyone is looking for their own place and space is incredible: plants that compete to see who grows taller to better absorb the light, animals that camouflage themselves among the vegetation to feed and defend themselves and finally the sound of the wind among the branches that creates a surreal atmosphere.
This morning too we had a great experience being able to enter this small portion of forest that gave us great emotions.
Now it's time for lunch though, so we go back to the main path and go down to a small restaurant just outside the park with tables immersed in a wonderful tropical garden.
On the way to Ambilobe
Just an hour for lunch and we get back in the car with destination Ambilobe. This town is located halfway between the city of Diego Suarez and the port of Ankify from which we will return to Nosy Be. In reality, this town does not have much of a tourist attraction to offer but we chose it both to break up the long 8-hour journey that connects Diego Suarez to the Port and to see the local reality in the heart of Madagascar.
So let's get going, we have a three hour drive ahead of us!
Retracing the outward journey, in the wake of excitement, I missed many details that I can now enjoy more calmly. Leaving the rainforest behind us, we arrive at the top of this enormous valley that resembles a savannah with alternating cultivated fields and small clusters of houses.
I ask the guide to stop because I would like to immortalize with the drone this natural landscape merged with civilization that still respects its spaces.
The drone from above shows me the herds of zebus controlled by some kids who are taking them back home, some baobabs lost in the middle of the savannah pop up forcefully in the frame.
You can't get used to Madagascar because every glimpse, every panorama, every context is truly unique.
Ambilobe
We arrive in the evening in this chaotic town! I was starting to doubt the hotel we would end up in but instead suddenly the car stops in front of this modern building well plastered and with red balconies. I know it is an eyesore compared to the context of stalls and ruined houses but after all this road I sincerely appreciate something comfortable!
I also wonder how many tourists can come all the way here to justify the presence of this super hotel but… Even if you don't believe it we found some Italians here too! Incredible!
In any case we arrive in the room and everything is perfect, especially the wonderful shower that after months of "discomfort" around the world, was really moving me!
Excellent! After a nice shower, we are ready for a little tour of the city: we decide to go for a beer in a typical bar that welcomes us warmly, for dinner instead we opted for the hotel restaurant with a typical Malagasy dinner.
The dirt streets of Ambilobe are home to a multitude of stalls and shops that begin to close as the sun sets. The city slowly empties, remember that many houses do not have electricity and therefore daily activities are strictly linked to the daytime hours.
We too, exhausted from the day, decide to go home and rest.
The noisy Ambilobe has died down leaving a ghost town until the next morning… Ready to leave for…?